8 Rules of Layering Your Skin-Care Products
1. Start light. Serums—the thinnest products—go first, because a) that just makes sense and b) "they deliver active ingredients into the skin most efficiently," says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston. Plus, they're easy to customize. Pick two or three serums that each treat one of your concerns: formulas with peptides for wrinkles (we like Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum),salicylic acid for oily skin (try Murad T-Zone Pore Refining Serum), and licorice or aloe to calm redness (like First Aid Beauty Anti-Redness Serum).
2. Add an antioxidant. Vitamin C is one ingredient every skin type needs. "It brightens, protects against sun damage, and promotes collagenproduction," says cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson, who recommends using a potent serum (such asObagi Professional-C Serum 15%).
3. Take a coffee break. "If you give each product a minute to dry, it won't pill," says Fredric Brandt, a dermatologist in New York City and Miami. "I flow my skin care in with the rest of my morning routine.For example, I put on a product, have coffee, then put on a second product, then brush my teeth."
4. Lock it down. Moisturizer is key to any layering routine because "it seals serums on your skin, which can make them more effective," says Wilson. Feel free to keep it basic: Try Cetaphil Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 15 for normal and oily skin and Simple Replenishing Rich Moisturizer for dry skin.
5. Know when to go in reverse. If your sensitive skin reddens at the thought of using even one treatment product, try putting on a simple, fragrance-free moisturizer first and then serums on top. "The cream will reduce the potency of the serums," says Hirsch, "but they'll also be less likely to cause irritation."
6. Add an oil. In small doses, oils make skin radiant. Put them on dry areas after creams—as a rule, oils can penetrate moisturizers, but not vice versa. We like L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil, with sunflower-seed and jojoba oils. Skip the oil if you're wearing more than two serums under your moisturizer, though—at some point, you can't avoid looking greasy.
7. Don't forget protection. "Sunscreen is your last step in the morning," says Jeannette Graf, a dermatologist in Great Neck, New York. "It sits on top of your skin, so if it goes on first, it prevents other ingredients from penetrating." Coppertone ClearlySheer Faces for Sunny Days SPF 30 is lightweight enough to layer over multiple products.
8. Have a nightcap. It's not as sexy as a snifter of whiskey. But ending your nighttime routine with a retinoidmakes you look a whole lot younger. (Every dermatologist recommends this anti-aging superingredient.) "I put my retinol over a serum and a cream—moisturizing helps retinol to penetrate better with less irritation," says Brandt, who uses his own Dr. Brandt Do Not Age Transforming Pearl Serum and Time Reversing Cream.